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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.