Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
